At the same time, the gardener needs to understand that an excess of nutrients is just as bad as any deficiency. Too much nutrients can lead to what is termed “fertilizer burn.” Just like vitamins, some are needed by plants in large quantities and others, in only minute amounts. Too much fertilization, particularly chemical fertilizers, can also reduce the quality of your soil or upset its ecological balance in the long run.

Nitrogen

The main nutrient needed by plants is nitrogen. Nitrogen is not a mineral, and therefore, is not found in the soil. Plants can only obtain nitrogen from the air, or from organic material added to the soil. Although nitrogen is plentiful in the atmosphere, it is reliant on agents to transfer it into the soil, where plants need it the most. These agents include:

• Rain
• Bacteria
• Decomposing organic material

In order for plants to utilize nitrogen, it first needs to be in nitrate form. Nitrogen in nitrate form can be easily absorbed by plants for immediate use. Nitrogen in ammonium form on the other hand, cannot be broken down so easily, and needs the action of microbes or other organisms to do the job.

A good nitrogen fertilizer should contain part ammonium-nitrogen and other nitrates to simultaneously release nitrogen slowly and rapidly. Organic nitrogen like urea nitrogen which release nitrogen slowly, should only be used in conjunction with faster acting nitrogen sources.

Phosphorus

Phosphorus is a mineral, and therefore, it does not dissolve or break down as easily as nitrogen molecules. Phosphorus ions bind together with other elements to form phosphate compounds which may or may not be absorbable by plants, depending on which other ions have bound themselves together.

Phosphorus fertilizers should be applied to the soil as close to the roots as possible, or in anticipation of their growth path. The reason for this is because of the highly reactive nature of phosphorus, which will bind onto other mineral ions at the slightest opportunity.

As a starter fertilizer, phosphorus and nitrogen are the two most important components which should be applied in the soil around seeds before they sprout, usually about a couple of inches between them and the seed.

Phosphorus fertilizers are commonly available as either water soluble, citrate soluble, or citrate insoluble forms (citrate is a form of citric acid). For seed planting, water soluble or citrate soluble phosphate are most suitable. Be careful with diammonium phosphate (read the label) because of its high ammonia content which can injure germinating seedlings; monoammonium phosphate is the better choice.

Potassium

Potassium is one of the most important nutrients for plants; plants need it for manufacturing starch and stomata activation. As such, plants absorb and use it in large quantities every day – nearly as much as nitrogen. While potassium is found in abundance in many soils with the exception of sandy or peaty soils; like phosphorus, it is not easily available to plants unless it is in a form called exchangeable potassium. The main bulk of soil potassium is locked up in mineral formations that are resistant to weathering.

Exchangeable potassium is found as colloids on clay particles or humus particles, where the K ions trade places with other ions that replace them once they get taken up by plants. This exchangeable form of potassium is best obtained from fertilizers, since freely available potassium is naturally scarce in the soil, and easily washed or leached away by rains.

Potassium and phosphorus fertilizers should be split into several applications a year, because plants will take in potassium regardless if they need it or not. So splitting up the applications will save valuable potassium from going to waste, or improve its efficiency.

Potassium should be applied as close to the roots as possible, because like phosphorus, it doesn’t “travel,” and will get bound to other ions before the roots even get near. Manure, compost, or potassium chloride will all provide potassium to the soil, while improving its structure. For fruit trees and vegetables, try using potassium nitrate instead, which has a lesser potassium content than potassium chloride, and provides some nitrogen as well.

Organic rubbish can turn into the best supplement for your plant’s needs, if their decomposition is properly facilitated. The fertilizer that is organic compost, is one of the most efficient types of plant nutrition, better than anything made by man.

The wonders of compost

Compost can also be used to condition any barren soil, and act as landfill cover. In places where soil is dominated by high silica content, compost functions as an absorbent material that retains moisture and nutrients. Composting is now being regarded as an efficient way to recycle material back into the earth’s system; just by grinding up organic material into small particles, and then “giving” it back to the earth, and you have already completed a full cyclical rotation of any given material substance.

Well made compost is dark in color, soft, and crumbles easily. Its main purpose is as an organic soil amendment, and it doubles up as a source of nutrients for plants. If you have a continuous supply of plant waste, then it makes sense to start a compost pile.

Is compost smelly and offensive?

Due to lack of awareness, most people assume compost heaps to be odious piles of rotten garbage in the backyard. The offensive stench would relegate it to some garden spot out of sight of any visitors, and unless asked about the whereabouts, would be something never discussed in public. In truth, compost heaps are not hard to maintain, and you can produce great compost without the stink. But, composting takes time, effort, patience, and some space in the garden for it to yield proper results.

When I started my first compost heap, I made several typical errors. These included preventing the pile from much needed oxygen, and not maintaining the exact moisture levels needed. It ended up decomposing in a very non-beneficial way, and producing an odor so foul that neighbors complained, and government agents were knocking at my door.

What should go into the compost heap?

Generally, most organic garbage from the yard or kitchen is suitable. This includes leaves, leftover food, old newspapers, grass debris left after mowing the lawn, and cut weeds. If you have a barrel devoted to storing these things, it can fill up quite easily within a few weeks. One important thing to keep in mind is the ratio of the types of compost material. The most abundant material in the pile should consist of plant matter.

The larger elements should be chopped into the smallest pieces possible. As the materials start to decompose, they should be aerated to get oxygen flowing, and turned over using a shovel or rake. One widely accepted rule of thumb is to keep the moisture to that of a wet sponge that has been squeezed out.

Choosing the right method

The backyard is usually the target location for a compost heap, and if possible, yes, it should be located out of the way. After all, a heap of decaying material isn’t exactly the nicest sight in your garden. A high square footage counts more than deeper pile, because deeper sections won’t be exposed to anything that is required for the process to work. So, it is better to spread it out over a wider area. One method involves spreading the compost pile over the roof of a low shed or tool shack, and using boards to prevent the pile from falling off.

Another way is stacking the compost material to a height of about 4-6 feet, inside an enclosure that has side openings for ventilation. A simple wire mash cylinder can do the job well enough. If the material is turned over regularly, it will ensure proper decomposition of all sections of the pile. Just make sure it is moist enough and well aerated, and it should decompose within 2-6 months, depending on the climate and the size of the compost material.

Many home gardeners are now trying their hand at composting because of the benefits it provides to the soil, plants, and environment in general. If maintaining a pile of compost sounds like something that would interest you, there are many sources of information dedicated to this subject alone, but ultimately, successful composting depends on actually doing it, and a little trial and error, especially at the start.

For further reading, here is a beneficial guide on composting.