At the same time, the gardener needs to understand that an excess of nutrients is just as bad as any deficiency. Too much nutrients can lead to what is termed “fertilizer burn.” Just like vitamins, some are needed by plants in large quantities and others, in only minute amounts. Too much fertilization, particularly chemical fertilizers, can also reduce the quality of your soil or upset its ecological balance in the long run.

Nitrogen

The main nutrient needed by plants is nitrogen. Nitrogen is not a mineral, and therefore, is not found in the soil. Plants can only obtain nitrogen from the air, or from organic material added to the soil. Although nitrogen is plentiful in the atmosphere, it is reliant on agents to transfer it into the soil, where plants need it the most. These agents include:

• Rain
• Bacteria
• Decomposing organic material

In order for plants to utilize nitrogen, it first needs to be in nitrate form. Nitrogen in nitrate form can be easily absorbed by plants for immediate use. Nitrogen in ammonium form on the other hand, cannot be broken down so easily, and needs the action of microbes or other organisms to do the job.

A good nitrogen fertilizer should contain part ammonium-nitrogen and other nitrates to simultaneously release nitrogen slowly and rapidly. Organic nitrogen like urea nitrogen which release nitrogen slowly, should only be used in conjunction with faster acting nitrogen sources.

Phosphorus

Phosphorus is a mineral, and therefore, it does not dissolve or break down as easily as nitrogen molecules. Phosphorus ions bind together with other elements to form phosphate compounds which may or may not be absorbable by plants, depending on which other ions have bound themselves together.

Phosphorus fertilizers should be applied to the soil as close to the roots as possible, or in anticipation of their growth path. The reason for this is because of the highly reactive nature of phosphorus, which will bind onto other mineral ions at the slightest opportunity.

As a starter fertilizer, phosphorus and nitrogen are the two most important components which should be applied in the soil around seeds before they sprout, usually about a couple of inches between them and the seed.

Phosphorus fertilizers are commonly available as either water soluble, citrate soluble, or citrate insoluble forms (citrate is a form of citric acid). For seed planting, water soluble or citrate soluble phosphate are most suitable. Be careful with diammonium phosphate (read the label) because of its high ammonia content which can injure germinating seedlings; monoammonium phosphate is the better choice.

Potassium

Potassium is one of the most important nutrients for plants; plants need it for manufacturing starch and stomata activation. As such, plants absorb and use it in large quantities every day - nearly as much as nitrogen. While potassium is found in abundance in many soils with the exception of sandy or peaty soils; like phosphorus, it is not easily available to plants unless it is in a form called exchangeable potassium. The main bulk of soil potassium is locked up in mineral formations that are resistant to weathering.

Exchangeable potassium is found as colloids on clay particles or humus particles, where the K ions trade places with other ions that replace them once they get taken up by plants. This exchangeable form of potassium is best obtained from fertilizers, since freely available potassium is naturally scarce in the soil, and easily washed or leached away by rains.

Potassium and phosphorus fertilizers should be split into several applications a year, because plants will take in potassium regardless if they need it or not. So splitting up the applications will save valuable potassium from going to waste, or improve its efficiency.

Potassium should be applied as close to the roots as possible, because like phosphorus, it doesn’t “travel,” and will get bound to other ions before the roots even get near. Manure, compost, or potassium chloride will all provide potassium to the soil, while improving its structure. For fruit trees and vegetables, try using potassium nitrate instead, which has a lesser potassium content than potassium chloride, and provides some nitrogen as well.

Vines are theoretically speaking, any type of plant that exhibits a climbing or trailing growth habit. There are plants that are semi-vines, and there are full fledged vines as well. Climbing vines are classified according to their climbing habit, and there are 4 main forms of vine climbing habit, which are twining, clinging, spreading by tendrils, and human aided/tied climbing.

Twining vines grow by means of wrapping their stems around any nearby support. The new growth twists or spirals as it grows, and is able to climb up small trees or poles. The structures of pergolas are highly suitable for twining vines, as are fences, stakes, or any kind of mesh-like structure. They need guidance during the early stages, but once established, twining vines are usually not difficult to manage. Some good twining vines are:

• Common white jasmine (Jasminum officinale)
• Wax plant (Hoya carnosa)
• Giant Burmese Honeysuckle (Lonicera hildebrandiana)
• Evergreen Wisteria (Milettia reticulate)
• Mexican Flame Vine (Senecio confuses)
• Evening Trumpetflower (Gelsemium sempervirens)

Tendril-type vines are another form of twining vine, except that they climb through means of tendrils, which are slim, specialized stems growing forth from the stems or the ends of leaves. These tendrils grow straight at first, but turn into a spiral when they make contact with any nearby support, and then they start winding and twisting. Some tendril vines you can plant include:

• Foetid Passion Flower (Passiflora foetida)
• Flame Vine (Pyrostegia venusta)
• Evergreen clematis (Clematis armandii)
• Coral Vine (Antigonon leptopus)
• Evergreen Grape (Rhoicissus capensis)

Clinging vines spread by means of special growths in the form of small adhesive tendrils or rootlets that attach onto flat surfaces or crevices. Clinging vines can do damage to wooden structures, and should only be used on solid brick walls. Even old brick walls are not suitable for clinging vines because the vines tend to collect moisture and debris around their rootlets, slowly weakening the wall over time. Some clinging vines are:

• Algerian Ivy (Hedera canariensis)
• Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala)
• Winter creeper (Euonymus fortunei)
• Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata)
• Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)

Vines that require human assistance are not very common, and some can be classified as semi-vines. These are vines that require tying up to a supporting structure, because they are not naturally predisposed to climbing. For example, some roses climb by means of thorns on their stems, and unless guided by the gardener, will grow in any direction. Some examples of vines that require tying are:

• Bougainvillea species
• Cup of Gold Vine (Solandra maxima)
• Cape Honeysuckle (Tecoma capensis)
• Climbing roses

Vines generally grow well in fertile and well drained soil. They are mostly sold in containers, and can be planted at any time of the year. Bare root vines should be planted in early spring though. Once established, vines do not require a lot of maintenance, except for some aggressive kinds, like ivy. Some like kudzu are best avoided, as they can become too problematic later on. Vines provide a classic touch to gardens, and they are great sunscreens as well. If you want fast greens to cover over bare spaces, vines may just be what you need.

The main components of soil that are deemed important by your herbs - nitrogen, phosphorus, moisture, PH level, and drainage, these elements are all determined by the nature of the soil used, and therefore, maintaining them all at optimum level is essential if you want to cultivate healthy herbs at all. Moreover, if you plant your herbs in containers, then you are solely responsible for almost all the needs of your herbs. Thankfully, most herbs do not have high requirements.

Most herbs like dry, alkaline soil with excellent drainage. Examples are lavender, anise, sage, and horehound. If the soil is kept too wet, some of these herbs that like it dry, may suffer from root rot. Most herbs cannot grow well in wet soil, preferring just a little moisture to semi-desert like conditions. The few that like moister soil include herbs like peppermint, chives, mint, and coriander. Adding a little compost to the soil can aid in helping the soil be more water retentive.

The ideal soil for growing herbs is one that isn’t too sandy or clayey. The particles of clay suspended in clay-rich soil will readily absorb water and retain it, while sandy soil which is rich in quartzite particles, have relatively large spacing in between the particles which on one hand provides for good air circulation and water flow, but need a certain amount of periodic enrichment, as on their own, they provide very little natural nutrients for the herbs.

The mineral content of soil is quite important for many herbs. Some herbs prefer more calcium rich soil, and for these, you could add more calcium in the form of lime or better still, crushed eggshells or shellfish shells (farm grit). Bear in mind that more calcium carbonate in the soil will increase the alkaline level of the soil, and what you want to achieve is only a slightly acidic or slightly alkaline environment, depending on the herbs you want to grow. Any more than that and the plants will develop problems like pale leaves and retarded growth.

How do you test the pH level of your soil? Just get distilled water (pH 7), and toss a spadeful of soil into the water. The water needs to be of similar amount (volume wise) to the soil. After that you stick in a piece of pH paper strip (available from lab supply and aquarium shops), and compare it to the pH chart which these pH kits usually supply. If it’s below pH 7, the soil is acidic, but if it’s above pH 7, than the soil is alkaline.

Most culinary herbs are native to the Mediterranean region, which implies lots of sun, breezy air, and well drained, rocky soils. These soils are also quite shallow, and these Mediterranean herbs therefore do not root deeply. So try to recreate this environment if you’re growing Mediterranean herbs like coriander, thyme, and parsley. Do not plant them too deep, a general depth of 6-8 inches below the surface is more than adequate. You can also plant them in a raised bed, and wall in the bed with wooden planks. Containment is useful if you’re planting perennial herbs that propagate by runners.

Terrace gardening encompasses both gardening and landscaping skills, requiring an eye for design if you want a really stunning looking terrace. Most people outsource the terrace garden work to landscape design companies, but to really ensure that you get what you envisioned as your terrace garden, why don’t you grow it yourself? For the DIY approach, here are some tips for consideration.

The first thing that you need to consider if you want to create your own terrace garden is the viability of your terrace. It has to be sturdy enough to support the weight of the media, the material design, and of course the growing plants. You don’t want to compromise the integrity of the building. If you’re not sure how much load your terrace can support, ask your engineer friends about it; they can estimate the load your terrace can support. It depends on the height and the material used for the built up area.

Terrace gardens often are:

• With soil as the base material or foundation, for the plants
• Housing potted plants, without soil being the foundation.

Soil obviously increases the weight of the terrace garden, and so is usually unsuitable for rooftop terrace gardening, unless it is sited on ground level. The best material to build up the terrace and hold the soil in, are bricks. Wooden walls run the risk of fungi, termites, powderpost bugs, or wood borer beetles, and are really only suitable for temporary outdoor terraces. If you plan for small terraces out in the garden, you can easily wall in a raised terrace using wooden plywood strips. Such terraces can be created for raised flower beds.

Now that you have a go signal to proceed with your plan, try to picture out how you want your terrace garden should look like. This helps to get a head start for your project. But know that when you have a lower terrace compared to your neighboring building, you want your garden to provide some kind of privacy for you. Using taller plants and dwarf trees can give this privacy. Some shrub species are Xylosma or Abelia. You also have to consider the size of your terrace. You don’t want to plant taller plants and heavy foliage when your terrace is limited in space.

Along with shrubs or dwarf trees, another way to screen the terrace is by addition of pergolas. Pergolas made of ceder and coated with exterior varnish are resistant to outdoor conditions for a long time. By adding a screening plant like Wisteria Sinensis, it performs just as well as any other shrub in shading your terrace from the sun and providing privacy.

As mentioned earlier, your terrace is best walled in with bricks. Waterproof your terrace by lining it with burnt bricks - not just brown bricks. Before you lay the bricks, be sure to wet your terrace well and observe how the water drains. They all need to drain towards the main drain pipe. Lay a very fine mesh over the bricks before you put in your planting media, which is your soil, in order for it not to seep into the cracks of your bricks defeating its draining purpose. Now you’re ready to place your soil, but soil tends to be heavy so that it’s advisable to use a mixture of soil, compost, and peat moss. In the case of totally soilless terraces, you only need to make sure the drainage works as it should. Collected, stagnant water can cause all kinds of problems.

When your media is ready, you can now plant your flowers and your trees in your terrace. You need to use plants that don’t have tap roots because they can grow deeper and can very well damage your terrace. Get ones that have fibrous roots. If you want to plant small trees in your terrace, be sure that the tap roots are bound or the tree is contained in a special container to restrict the growth of its tap roots. Try to have balance of flowering plants and foliage plants that will survive through winter to provide you with shades of green even during winter. Suitable plants or trees for terrace planting, are those with some hedging characteristics, or able to tolerate droughts, and are relatively small in size. Some species to consider are:

• Rosa eglanteria
• Abelia grandifolia
• Buxus species
• Olive species
• Wisteria sinensis
• Juniperus (shrub types)
• Date palms
• Ligustrum jonandrum

What if you only have a tight balcony instead of a spacious terrace? Don’t worry because you can still have your mini garden in your balcony so long as it can support the weight that you’ll be adding to it. There are gardening boxes you can get from gardening shops in which you can hang along the rails of your balcony and plant flowers in them. Arrange short flowering plants in the center of these boxes and plant hanging foliage along the edges to create the illusion of variety and space. You can also slot in small rocks to create an exquisite rock garden right within your terrace.

No matter how big or small your terrace or your balcony is; you can still create your own garden sanctuary in it. You just need to compensate space with your creativity and you definitely turn a small terrace into a very unique one.

Anyone can take up bonsai even without sufficient land space. Bonsai suits those living in apartments and condominiums with only a balcony to garden in. But, most bonsai trees are not adapted to grow indoors. This is a common misconception, that although you can grow almost all types of tree species as bonsai, only a few species can be grown “indoors.” Even then, it is not their natural behavior to grow indoors, but these few species can better tolerate indoor conditions compared to most others.

As a general rule, trees growing in temperate climates need a dormancy period, and in the warmth of an indoor environment, they will die. The one’s you see being photographed indoors are almost always juveniles. On the other hand, trees from tropical areas are often from forests with high canopies that shade the forest floor; they are better able to tolerate lower light conditions and the modular temperature of indoors. So, tropical/subtropical trees are often the only choices for indoor bonsai.

Some of the bonsai tree species that can be grown INDOORS are:

• Serissa Foetida
• Adenium Obessum
• Ficus Benjamina
• Holiday Cactus (Schlumbegera)
• Jade Plant (Crassula ovata)
• Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
• Olive family species
• Brush Cherry (Eugenia mytrifolia)
• Schefflera arboricola
• Pomegranate (Punica sp)
• Azaleas (Rhododendron sp)
• Chinese Sweetplum (Sageretia thea)

Bonsai has been grown indoors with only artificial light as their light source. Most species adapt well to artificial light, and will bloom even during winter. Examples of this are Serissa and Punica, while the Chinese Elm and Brush Cherry will enter dormancy during winter. It is a good practice to take the trees out during the summer, as they will benefit from the sun’s rays, rather than keep feeding them artificial light. Fluorescent lights measuring about a meter long are commonly used to provide the artificial lighting.

Good air circulation in and around the pot is highly beneficial for the plant. Small fans installed above the lighting and running at low speed is adequate. You can actually combine a “mini” greenhouse with a sufficiently large cupboard, fluorescent lights and proper ventilation, just like what you see being done in aquariums. The leaves of the bonsai should be as close as possible to the fluorescent unit without getting burnt by the light, because the light intensity falls rapidly away the further the bonsai is from the lighting. For best lighting settings, consult an aquarium specialist near you; these guys often have good knowledge on how to grow aquatic tropical plants which can be applied to growing bonsai as well.

For soil and feeding concerns, try to get soilless mix because these are the easiest to handle, and whatever nutritional inadequacies can be rectified with adequate mixtures of peat or bark. A typical bonsai soil composition is one third sand, one third peat, and one third regular soil. Or you can try Akadama. Akadama and other pumice based soil are often regarded as the best “soil,” because they are porous and absorb water, while still being able to drain water easily.

The important thing to remember for the soil, is how deep the water can penetrate and how well it drains away. Typically, very small trees require watering daily, while larger trees can be watered 2-3 times a week. One advantage with Akadama soil, is you can tell if the soil is damp or not by looking at it. If it’s damp, it is dark in color and vice versa if it’s dry.